We can show you how to make the mask, what you do with it is up to you…
methods covered: refacing, cut-out, and molded
The refaced or cutout masks should cost less (even much less) than a commercial mask, while mold-make masks will probably cost more (even a lot more, depending on what you make it from) unless you are mass-producing them, but they are more durable. If you decide to mass-produce masks from a mold process, once you have any start-up equipment already, along with bulk purchasing of supplies reduces the cost of each mask, even the molded ones.
reface another mask
reface a plastic or silicone mask
Find almost any Halloween or other mask, at places like thrift/second hand stores, or specialty costume, party or hobby stores. Spray paint it the desired skin tone, then stencil or free hand one of these designs with a black magic marker or paint, then rub a little lipstick or blush on the cheeks and lips. Be creative!
- if you will be in a potentially confrontational situation, consider a pull-over-the head silicone mask – these are also easier to stuff in a bag or pocket.
- if you want to look more like V, glue on a black (eg. witch) wig, trim it to desired length, and add a hat, or black hooded cape to complete the effect, total cost should be minimal especially if you get items at a thrift store.
reface your face
the one below is meant to look like an actual mask
reface a ski mask
To reface a ski mask, use one of the stencils below, with black spray paint or acrylic over a lighter skin-tone pullover ski mask, or cut the light parts to spray/paint on over a darker skin-tone mask. Add the blush and lip color as above, with a little blush or lip gloss.
stencil on any fabric
Any fabric can be stenciled with one of the V stencils below. Eye, nose and mouth openings may need to be sealed with something like rubber cement so they don’t unravel. Some ideas: a scarf that can be wrapped around the face, a stocking cap, etc.
#protip: to mask eyes, cut a dark colored lightweight fabric such as black stocking nylons into two oval shapes. Tape or glue over eye holes on the inside of the mask. You can use dark colored cellophane but it can get foggy so the fabric is better.
These are the fastest, easiest and cheapest masks to make. One great way to make a paper mask more durable and somewhat waterproof is to lay a layer or two of wide clear packing tape over both sides of the image before cutting out the mask. After cutting, a coat or even several light coats of spray polyurethane sealer will improve the appearance and waterproofing. If this is done on the 3-D paper mask below (which is 3-D) it will look almost like the commercial ones.
flat paper mask
Note: other materials can be used, such as plastic, foam or vinyl.
Right-click images for a full sized version
3-D paper mask
The disadvantage with this one is it takes longer to cut out and put pieces back together, but it is 3-D and looks more like the plastic ones, especially if you do the tape and spray steps, below. If you print out and assemble all the pieces but the nose you can then reprint that as a unit, and assemble and insert the nose afterward. This is a lot easier, as there will only be a few pieces to cut and tape after printing.
- All the pieces except the nose can be aligned and printed as a unit for much easier assembly.
- Layer image area front and back sides with several layers of clear tape, as described above.
- Assemble the nose pieces, insert from the back, and glue flaps in place.
- After assembly coat the mask with polyurethane spray or brush-on silicone for further waterproofing and durability.
plastic, vinyl, foam or stiff fabric cut-out masks
Another alternative for a more durable and better looking mask is to print the image out on a clear contact sheet and apply it to a heavier material like a sheet of heat-moldable foam before cutting it out (hobby stores). Also stiff fabrics are suitable, like a vinyl tablecloth, or other cloth. This can also be sprayed or silicone-coated to make it retain shape and look better.
- leave the nose pieces out for the next step, assemble the nose and shape it separately, then attach to the shaped face from behind.
- once the contact image is applied, gently heat the mask with a hair dryer while applying it to a face or other mask to mold the shape.
- To assemble pieces
- use rubber cement, 5 minute epoxy or fast drying model glue on vinyl, rubber, plastic, or other synthetic materials.
- tape works best on paper since the glue can make the paper wet, causing it to wrinkle.
Use your imagination and share your experience, this one is made from leather.
masks made from a mold
These masks will be more durable, but take longer and cost more to produce. There are lots of interesting materials at hobby shops for making masks, either with a mold or sculpted free-hand. Consider any of the following possibilities:
- sheets of foam that can be shaped and heated with a hair dryer over a form such as a mask then paint/stencil
- epoxy (glues that set up when two ingredients are mixed)
- epoxy clays (clay-textured epoxy)
- papier-mache (finely ground paper and wheat paste)
- oven-cure clay (shrinkage is a problem)
epoxy clay or silicone mask using a commercial V mask mold
In this case, the commercial mask is used directly as the mold, eliminating the mold making time, effort and expense. You still need one mask, unless you can sculpt pretty well.
- one commercial V mask (can be used multiple times)
- epoxy clay (two parts you mix and use within an hour)
The first one shows a technique using a V mask for the a mold, but he’s not using the correct (epoxy) clay that will make a durable mask. Also you probably won’t have time to make neat little balls, just use pinches of clay and smooth them together, because depending on the room temperature and how you mix the epoxy you might not have time before it starts to harden.
The second video uses the epoxy clay but he’s using his face as a mold (definitely not recommended, if nothing else, it could be identifiable). Another consideration is to use disposable gloves to avoid getting fingerprints in the clay or paint… not to sound to paranoid but it’s something to consider.
Between the two it should be pretty easy to figure out how to do it. Use some oil to coat the form mask so that the clay mask will be easy to remove (vegetable spray or vaseline).
NOTE: Applying the clay to the OUTSIDE of the mask will make a slightly larger mask with a rougher visible surface. Applying the clay to the INSIDE of the mask will make a slightly smaller mask with a smooth visible surface.
Other mask-making videos using various materials including clays, silicone, paper and aluminum foil are linked.
The silicone mixture mentioned below could also be used instead of the epoxy clay. Silicone is flexible which makes it less durable but it can be folded up and put in a pocket.
silicone or epoxy clay mask using a plaster mold
- one V mask (the original to be duplicated)
- Plaster-of-Paris (available at any hardware store) or rapid “lightweight” spackling compound (more expensive but faster set-up and less brittle)
- a waterproof container that is deep and wide enough to contain the mask (disposable aluminum foil pan is perfect, or old plastic one you don’t mind wasting, as it will remain a part of the mold)
Instructions for making the mold
There are two main kinds of plaster or spackling: the standard powder you mix with water, and an ultralight ready to use spackling compound which is MUCH easier to use, faster to set up, and less prone to breaking than traditional plaster-of-paris. If you can afford to spend extra definitely consider this instead.
- Cover eye and mouth holes of mask with tape, like duct tape, on the inside of the mask. Coat the outside of the mask lightly with oil (baby, suntan, vegetable, motor, vaseline, anything that is oily is fine) so that it’s easier to remove from the plaster.
- Mix plaster-of-paris per instructions on the box, with luke-warm water. Hot water can be used but it will set up much faster. If you use the light-weight spackling no mixing is necessary and setup time is more predictable than the kind you mix up. Setup times can vary depending on atmospheric conditions but recommended times should be listed on container.
- Fill the pan about 3/4ths full with the plaster.
- Push the mask, face-down, into the plaster, gently jiggling it to fill air pockets. If you are using the pre-mix lightweight spackle, coat the outside of the mask with a layer before inserting to reduce the chances of poor coverage. Make sure the plaster is deep enough for the mask to be fully inserted.
- Let it set up until the plaster is firm. Remove the mask, and let the plaster “cure” the recommended time.
- When the mold is almost dry, any flaws can be corrected with gentle shaping with a sharp knife or other tool, and gaps or other flaws can be filled with a little fresh plaster mix. These molds can also be cleaned up with a knife or other sharp item to remove rough spots, etc.
- white tinted bathtub calking
- instructions for DIY silicone
- or just buy some brush-on silicone (craft stores, online)
Instructions for making the mask
- Use brush-on silicone or the tub calking mixture to coat mold about 1/8″ or 2-3mm thick, let set until firm and dry. Gently remove the new mask from mold.
- Paint with silicone based paint (tub caulk will work for the base white, add pigments as desired) and black magic marker or pigmented clear caulk.
- Puncture mask at about ear level to add elastic band, two bands is better since these masks are more flexible than plastic. Or attach to a ski mask for better stay-on.
epoxy clay* mask
- Instead of a soft flexible silicone mask, a rigid (like plastic) very sturdy mask can be made by working epoxy clay into the plaster mold, to about 1/8″ thickness (2-3mm) and allowing it to cure per instructions; material is much cheaper to order online (bulk) but for only a few masks should be available at hobby stores.
- Make the elastic holes before it sets up, otherwise you will have to drill it, this material is very hard.
- Paint with spray or acrylic paint, magic marker or acrylic for black accents.
*Note: this is NOT the oven bake clay, that material is probably unsuitable for making a mask, since it will shrink significantly. Epoxy clay comes in two packages which are mixed and used immediately, just like liquid epoxy.
more Guy Fawkes images
Above image source >> http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b269/askaboutrpickles/c515f9e0.jpg
This one doesn’t show well on our site because it’s transparent. Also useful as a window decal. Above image source >> http://www.clker.com/cliparts/8/n/Z/d/o/K/guy-fawkes-mask-hi.png
Above image source >> http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/562/egfbw3ol5.jpg